Pet Information: Fish and Other Aquarium Inhabitants
Below you'll find general information that applies to all freshwater fish. You can find specific information for different types of fish by following these links:
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Pet Information: General Fish Information
Freshwater fish fall mostly into two groups, tropical or cold water. Goldfish and koi are cold water fish, but almost all other fish sold in pet stores are tropical and will need a water heater. All fish should have at least a gallon of water for each inch of fish, gravel, and a filter.
The gallon of water is necessary for swimming room, having enough dissolved oxygen, and diluting the ammonia that fish produce. A larger tank, at least 2.5 gallons, is recommended; it will allow for a more stable temperature, proper nitrogen cycling, less maintenance, and a more active fish. Goldfish and koi should have at least TWO gallons of water for each inch of fish - they eat a lot and they poop a lot. Goldfish should grow to about 8 inches long for fantails and 12 inches long for comets, and should be kept in at least a 30 gallon tank. Koi should grow to about 36 inches long and be kept in at least a 100 gallon tank
The gravel is an important part of the Nitrogen Cycle in most fish tanks (it can be supplemented or replaced with specialized filter inserts). Fish "pee" straight ammonia and it is highly toxic, nitrifying bacteria (good bacteria) that live amongst the gravel break the Ammonia down into Nitrites, and then into Nitrate. Nitrate is not toxic except in extremely high levels and can be used by live aquarium plants. Without gravel or specialized filter inserts the good bacteria do not have enough surface area to grow on, and they cannot properly do their job.
A filter is necessary to keep the water moving and oxygenated, remove particulates like uneaten food and solid poop, and the activated carbon helps remove dissolved contaminates and eliminate the "fishy" smell. A filter does NOT remove Ammonia or Nitrites unless you use specially formulated filter media, like Ammo-Chips. The most important thing when choosing a filter is to make sure the filter is rated for the size aquarium you have. This information will be on the filter packaging. It is always better to over-filter an aquarium than under-filter.
The gallon of water is necessary for swimming room, having enough dissolved oxygen, and diluting the ammonia that fish produce. A larger tank, at least 2.5 gallons, is recommended; it will allow for a more stable temperature, proper nitrogen cycling, less maintenance, and a more active fish. Goldfish and koi should have at least TWO gallons of water for each inch of fish - they eat a lot and they poop a lot. Goldfish should grow to about 8 inches long for fantails and 12 inches long for comets, and should be kept in at least a 30 gallon tank. Koi should grow to about 36 inches long and be kept in at least a 100 gallon tank
The gravel is an important part of the Nitrogen Cycle in most fish tanks (it can be supplemented or replaced with specialized filter inserts). Fish "pee" straight ammonia and it is highly toxic, nitrifying bacteria (good bacteria) that live amongst the gravel break the Ammonia down into Nitrites, and then into Nitrate. Nitrate is not toxic except in extremely high levels and can be used by live aquarium plants. Without gravel or specialized filter inserts the good bacteria do not have enough surface area to grow on, and they cannot properly do their job.
A filter is necessary to keep the water moving and oxygenated, remove particulates like uneaten food and solid poop, and the activated carbon helps remove dissolved contaminates and eliminate the "fishy" smell. A filter does NOT remove Ammonia or Nitrites unless you use specially formulated filter media, like Ammo-Chips. The most important thing when choosing a filter is to make sure the filter is rated for the size aquarium you have. This information will be on the filter packaging. It is always better to over-filter an aquarium than under-filter.
Tropical Fish
Water temperatures between 74 - 82 F
Tropical fish food: flakes, crisps, or pellets When choosing how many fish to put in a tank judge by the size they will reach, not the size they are now, unless you plan to get another tank within a year. The lifespan for tropical fish varies, but they should live at least 5 years. |
Cold Water Fish
Water temperatures between 65-75 F
Goldfish or Koi food: flakes, crisps, or pellets It is not true that goldfish and koi only grow as big as their tanks - their growth may be stunted by improper conditions but this is cruel. Goldfish should live well past 10 years of age, with 20s and 30s being common in healthy fish. Koi grow to be very large, and belong in a pond or tank that is at least 100 gallons. Koi should live to be at least 50. |
Basic Tank Requirements for All
COVER: Make sure your aquarium has an escape-proof cover, many fish have been known to jump. It should fit snugly onto the tank with an area for the filter, heater cord, and any airline tubing to enter.
TEMPERATURES: Aquarium temperatures should be monitored closely and kept within the recommended range for the species you choose. An appropriately sized aquarium heater should be used to maintain proper temperature for your fish. Sudden drops in temperature should be avoided as they stress fish and weaken their immune systems.
AERATION: An air pump, airline hosing, and airstone provide oxygenation to the water. Air pumps are sold based on the size aquarium they are used for. This is especially important in tall tanks, as they do not have enough surface area for proper gass exchange.
LIGHTING: Fish require a clear day/night cycle to do well. Turn your tank's lights on for 10-12 hours a day, either manually or with a timer. Too little light is not good for the fish's circadian rhythm (natural day/night cycle), and too much light contributes to excess algae growth.
TANK MAINTENANCE: A partial water change, up to 1/3 of the total water volume, should be done every two to four weeks to remove built up wastes and harmful dissolved compounds. The easiest way to do water changes is with a gravel vacuum, which sucks waste out of the gravel without removing the gravel itself. Replace removed water with dechlorinated water of the same temperature as the aquarium water. Do NOT completely empty and clean and aquarium unless it is in response to a disease outbreak, you will remove the nitrifying bacteria that break down the fish's waste. If you need to, or after treating with antibiotics, a bacteria supplement like API's StressZyme can help rebuild the necessary bacteria population.
TEMPERATURES: Aquarium temperatures should be monitored closely and kept within the recommended range for the species you choose. An appropriately sized aquarium heater should be used to maintain proper temperature for your fish. Sudden drops in temperature should be avoided as they stress fish and weaken their immune systems.
AERATION: An air pump, airline hosing, and airstone provide oxygenation to the water. Air pumps are sold based on the size aquarium they are used for. This is especially important in tall tanks, as they do not have enough surface area for proper gass exchange.
LIGHTING: Fish require a clear day/night cycle to do well. Turn your tank's lights on for 10-12 hours a day, either manually or with a timer. Too little light is not good for the fish's circadian rhythm (natural day/night cycle), and too much light contributes to excess algae growth.
TANK MAINTENANCE: A partial water change, up to 1/3 of the total water volume, should be done every two to four weeks to remove built up wastes and harmful dissolved compounds. The easiest way to do water changes is with a gravel vacuum, which sucks waste out of the gravel without removing the gravel itself. Replace removed water with dechlorinated water of the same temperature as the aquarium water. Do NOT completely empty and clean and aquarium unless it is in response to a disease outbreak, you will remove the nitrifying bacteria that break down the fish's waste. If you need to, or after treating with antibiotics, a bacteria supplement like API's StressZyme can help rebuild the necessary bacteria population.
Common Terms
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Schooling*: a group of fish that stay close together and swim in the same direction.
Shoaling*: a group of fish that stay close together but swim around in random directions Live-bearers: fish that give birth to live young, like guppies and mollies Egg-layers: fish that lay eggs Bubble-nesters: fish that build a nest out of bubbles and use it to care for their young Mouth-brooders: fish that keep their young in their mouths, usually only when danger is nearby Peaceful/Community Fish: fish that can easily be mixed together without aggression or predation. |
pH: measures the acidity or alkalinity of water.
Ammonia: toxic to fish; it is excreted by fish and produced by decaying material (such as uneaten food). Nitrite: toxic to fish; it is the first product of the nitrogen cycle. Nitrate: only toxic in high concentrations; it is the end product of the nitrogen cycle, removed via water changes. Alkalinity/Carbonate Hardness: measures the buffering capacity of your water/its resistance to pH changes. General Hardness: measures the total hardness of your water. *These fish should ALWAYS be kept in groups of at least 3, preferably with at least 5. |
Stocking
When stocking a tank, follow the general rule of 1 inch of fish per gallon. Check to make sure the fish you are considering have an average or low bioload (algae eaters, slender fish), allow 2 gallons per inch of fish for those with a higher bioload.
For a new tank: add 3-4 fish, wait a week, then add 3-4 more and repeat. Adding a lot of fish at once can cause spikes in ammonia because there is not enough nitrifying bacteria, and the bacteria need time to reproduce. There is no minimum tank size rule and you must first consider the type of fish you want, their bioload, their swimming needs, their substrate needs, their schooling needs, and their territorial needs. Considering Stock for Your Community Tank Like people, all fish have different personalities, they may not always get along with each other even if the species are compatible tank mates. Some fish become more aggressive as they get bigger, while others can become aggressive if they are not in a large enough school. Please note that some of the schooling fish can be placed by themselves (like Cory Catfish and Otociclus) but prefer to be in a school, while others must always remain in a school. Before stocking your tank, please do research into the species you are considering. Find out their bioloads (high or low), water conditions, live plant needs, and other details that may pertain to the type of tank you are considering. Betta fish should be added after you place your community in the tank, otherwise the betta may become territorial and not welcome any newcomers. If you decide to add more fish later it can be beneficial to rearrange your tank decorations or plants immediately before adding the new fish. |
Tank Decorations
Which gravel and tank decorations are used largely depends on personal preference. Gravel comes in many different sizes and colors.
If using gravel, rocks, or driftwood you found outside somewhere, or from a home improvement store, they need to be sterilized before using them in your aquarium. This is accomplished by boiling them in a large pot of water for 20 minutes to 1 hour. It is also important to make sure the rocks do not contain limestone, which is harmful in aquariums. Sometimes even rocks sold in pet stores specifically for aquaiums may have this so you should always test them. To do this splash the rock with a touch of vinegar and see if the rock changes color. A change in color indicates limestone is present and the decor should be returned to the store, since it is not safe for fish. If driftwood found outside is too large to boil, baking it in a low temperature oven (200F) for a few hours will also sterilize it. The wood must be monitored very closely/frequently as the baking process risks drying the wood out to the point where it can catch fire. Bleach should not be used except on large rocks that you can thoroughly rinse, any bleach left in gravel or porous materials could kill your fish. Feeding
If the food is making a mess, then you are feeding too much. The point is to feed as much as the animals will eat quickly, in a few hours for snails and within 5 minutes for fish and shrimp. ALL food makes a mess if the fish/frogs/shrimp/snails don't eat it. Vacuum up any leftover food with a gravel vacuum or designated turkey-baster, and feed less next time. More frequent small feedings are better than sporadic large ones, and many fish benefit from being fed twice a day 5 days a week, having one day with treats like frozen or freeze-dried bloodworms, and one fasting day. In the wild fish do not find food every day, and fasting can help prevent constipation. This does NOT mean you skip multiple days or feed sporadically, set up a schedule that works for you and stick with it.
Example: skip Monday, flakes Tuesday - Thursday, Bloodworms on Friday, flakes Saturday and Sunday. |
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